The Iceland Traverse - Day 7
I was awake most of the nigh drifting off here and there then being shocked back up as strong gusts of wind smashed into the tent. I kept checking the time. 3am, 3:05am, 3:10am... you can see where this is going. Eventually 5am rolled around and we were sick of the sound of the wind beating against the tent walls. We decided to hit the trail. It was a truly miserable morning, cold, very wet and very windy. The wet made the sand stick to everything like glue. It stuck to my coat, when I tried to wipe it off it stuck to my hands. Then it stuck to everything I touched thereafter.
After an hour we found a little shelter behind a big sharp lava rock. A small spindly spider was making its way up the black sand bank to where we were sat. It seemed to be the only lifeform out here besides us. We continued to battle through the wind hiking quite strong and making good progress. The wind had almost become a companion. You really do get used to it after some time and forget what its like to hear the person next to you or even just enjoy the silence.
The rocky terrane got increasingly harsh. Sharp black rocks stuck out of every square inch of earth in all directs fit to roll the ankle of even the strongest hikers. It was punishing on the feet yet a wonderful and interesting sight to see. I have never seen a landscape like it and, despite all my complaining about the weather, I was very glad to be there.
We pause again for a quick snack. Shoes off, socks off, quick rest and go. The landscape getting increasingly black like stepping onto another planet. I can see why this area is used to train NASA astronauts to navigate Luna landscapes, practice sample collection and expedition skills for moon landings.
The rain showers stopped and started all day. The moody weather somewhat suits the landscape. We found a very sheltered spot for lunch and the world turned silent again. As there is no vegetation and there is very little visual signals to show the wind is still blowing. Behind our rock it was completely silent. No evidence of the gale just a few feet in front of us.
After lunch we pushed hard. We knew a severe rain storm was headed our way at about 5pm. We were heading for a little hut at the foot of Askja volcano and decided that perhaps we would stay inside. As we pushed on, the valley alongside Askja opened up into huge towering rock walls on one side and a black sand filled river on the other. The hut appeared in the distance as black clouds started to accumulate above our heads. We reached the hut but had the river to cross before going inside. What is it with Iceland and river crossings just a few feet from camp! We crossed the river, our feet sinking into the sandy river bed. Not as cold as the last crossing thankfully.
I slipped the bolt out of the catch holding the first door of the hut closed. We stepped inside and removed our shoes. The second door took us into the main part of the hut. It is stocked high with pots and pans, plenty of space to sleep on the 2, 4 wide bunk beds. There were tables and chairs, first aid kits, old gas bottles and other useful bits and pieces. Old heaters and some 18 in 1 soap? Interesting! I can't think of 18 things it could be used for. We get there early. Sand trickled in around the window frames as the wind hammered it against the side of the hut. We filtered some water and got inside just as the rain started.
We had a quiet evening and it was nice to be out of the relentless wind and rain. The weather looked to be continuing on much the same for the next few days. At about 9pm the door swung open and a very wet and windswept man with a backpack walked in. We spoke briefly but he planned to camp outside the hut. He came and cooked inside with us and we chatted long into the evening. He was from France and was hiking the Askja trail going out of the highlands to Myvatn, the way we had just come in. He soon trudged off to his tent. He had found a somewhat sheltered spot but I was very glad to be inside. I love camping but our tent was so cramped and this weather was relentless. I was looking forward to a good nights sleep.
