The Iceland Traverse - Day 6
An amazing breakfast. Just what I needed! The guesthouse gave us a ticket for a free all you can eat breakfast we had supposedly booked but they had no way of checking as the system was down. So free breakfast I guess. Not intentional but happy to have it nonetheless. Once we'd had our fill and more, we set out on the road near Myvatn lake down towards the "gateway to the highlands." We tried to hitch the road and got two successful rides. One local and one holiday maker who tried what we were doing 43 years ago! Sadly they had to turn around due to severe wind and sandstorms. Lets hope we don't suffer the same fate.
We stepped out of the camper and instantly we were hit by the wind and sand. Start as you mean to go on! We headed down the track and through a little farm which was seemingly the last point of civilisation. After a couple of miles we found some large rock forms. Cooled lava that jutted out at all angles in sharp points more random than a scrunched up piece of paper. We hunkered down behind it for a quick snack and a break from the relentless wind and sand. By this point it was reaching 45 to 50mph according to our inReach.
Reluctantly, we plunged back out and head on into the wind hiking towards Sellandafjall volcano. We had been looking at this for over a day and it didn't seem to get any closer but today we were meant to pass it. A big, flat landscape with individual volcanoes sticking out as though placed there by someone at random. The track was travelable by 4x4 so was hard packed. Miranda was having significant issues with her feet. I think long, road walk like conditions make all our feet ache but this was beyond that. Maybe the wrong shoe? But they had worked so well before. Regardless she soldiered on, taking off her shoes and resting when we could. We stopped for lunch. No shelter from the wind. My couscous almost black with sand giving it a interesting bite! We ate as quickly as we could and pushed on to the base of the volcano.
We continue round Sellandafjall seemingly never passing the massive looming structure that is somewhat faint through the blowing sand. There are a few sheep grazing the small green patches up the steep bank. I was surprised to see them so far out here with nothing but this small patch of green to keep them going. Once we finally got passed, the wind picked up even more. We fought our way down to a little stream at the bottom of a small dip. We took shoes and socks off to cross it as it was only one small river crossing .We didn't fancy getting wet socks right at the end of the day. It was freezing! One of the coldest crossings I have ever done. It actually hurt but soon took the sting out of our aching feet.
We found a flat...ish spot by the river. It was more sheltered than the plateau we had been crossing but the small dip we were in provided very little shelter. We set up nonetheless as there were no other options. In the tent we tried to cook our dinner while the wind hammered the tent and bowed the poles. Sand flew in from every direction. It was nice to get it all closed up and climb inside the quilt but we were in for a rough and very sleepless night.
