The Iceland Traverse - Day 16 / Laugavegur Trail - Day 2
The morning was dry. Clouds still hung low around the mountains obscuring our view down the valley. We were first up in the campsite, had breakfast and left before anyone else got out of their tents. I prefer to do most of my hiking in the morning, getting into camp in good time and having a more relaxed afternoon (if possible). We headed up above the hut and onto a plateau with stunning views all the way across the valley and of the surrounding mountains. Just after leaving camp we encountered a river crossing that intersected with a 4x4 track. It was painfully cold, but slow moving and only thigh deep. We crossed and hiked hard to ward off the cold from the river. At that moment the rain started to fall. Hard.
We headed up a steep but steady mountain pass, the rain getting harder as we climbed. Other hikers were coming down the pass, the first people we had seen that day. They were dressed head to toe in waterproofs carrying heavy bags. At least they had the rain to their back. As we topped the pass the wind hit us. Again, the wind was forecast to be strong and it was right into our faces. It drove the rain into us. I hiked head down desperately trying to stop the rain from getting inside my hood.
The trail continued round the side of the mountain, a narrow ledge cut into the hillside. It then dropped as Emstrur hut came into view through the thick, wet fog. We got down to the hut quickly and found the little shelter tent for cooking and drying clothes. There were a few people inside. Those that had camped at this hut that night. We spoke with a few people going the other way, about the trail ahead mostly. It sounded as beautiful as what we had already passed. We had a quick snack, wished them luck on their next leg of the trail and headed back out into the mist and rain.
As we dropped down and round the next mountain, the weather began to improve. The clouds lifted slightly and the rain began to subside. Eventually, we could lose the waterproofs, which is always nice. We stayed low for most of the rest of the day following the Makarfjot river over lava sands, sharp rock fields and ancient, little birch woodlands. The trees were not much taller than me. We stopped in a little valley next to a small mountain stream for lunch. While the water boiled, we took the chance to filter some more drinking water. There was lots of water on this section so we saw little reason to carry much more than a litre at once each.
After lunch we rounded the corner and started to drop down towards a deep, raging river filled canyon. A little bridge down inside the canyon gave us some fantastic views up the length of it. Once up the other side, the rain began again. Back into our waterproofs. We dropped down beside the river into a valley so green with moss, it almost felt as though it was luminous. The climb up the other side of the valley was short but sharp. A hot steep climb in waterproofs followed by not much of a view at the top of the pass. The clouds had set in again.
After taking the trail along the top of the pass, through some shallow streams and over some small rolling hills at the top, we descended steeply. We were heading for Skogar now. Down down down on a small but well marked gravel path until we hit a gravel valley at the bottom. A river ran through the middle of the wide flat valley. A river we had heard was the crux of this trail. Well, I mean no offence to anyone, and I am certainly no expert in these things, but this is where we met a guided group. The river directly ahead was slightly narrower and flowing fast. The guided group were encouraged to cross here. It was nearly waist deep and flowing strong with all the rain we'd had. The "technique" they had adopted for crossing the river seamed to be, go fast and hope for the best. Again, I am no expert, but do your research into guiding companies if you choose to go with one. Also, learn how to cross a river, even theoretically before you go. It might just save your life.
We walked 50 or so metres upstream to a slightly wider section of river. Here it was slower flowing and only knee deep. We took our time nonetheless and crossed easily without any dramas. The other side took us up into more birch forest. I had missed forest hiking. It is some of my favourite hiking. With the wild flowers and fog it was a beautiful contrast and really took the sting out of the climb. Once at the top, it was just a short 2km descent into Skogar. More wildflowers, birch woodland and lush green grass took as all the way down the pass. We arrived at Langidalur Hut in Skogar and booked in for camping. After eating some extra snacks we bought from the hut warden, we set up our tent.
The wardens at the huts constantly recieve weather updates for the local area, so we went and spoke the warden to see if better weather was coming. Apparently so! The sun was due to come out by 9am and the clouds to lift completely. We were technically at the end of the Laugavegur trail but still had the beautiful Fimmvorduhals traverse to go. A high, steep, narrow mountain pass that would take us all day. We had our dinner in the food tent, chatted with others that had been hiking in the area and soon went to bed. We were planning on a steady start the next day to get the best views possible in the best weather from the start.
