Hiking this trail has made me realised that to the outside perspective, the daily up and down of mountain passes, one as stunning as the last I might add, is rather repetitive and dull. I hiked up, nice view, and down, nice view, up and down, up and down. On this day in Kosovo, well, it was much the same. There were some pretty mountain passes. But rather a large portion of the day was spent on roads with rocky cliffs either side. It was hot today. I can't stand the heat. I can't deal with it while hiking especially. You spend the entire day sweating from places you didn't even know existed only to smear it on the inside of the sleep system. It only gets better when you wake up stuck to your pad.
Despite numerous locals asking what I was doing traipsing along their mountain roads, and a few lifts offered even, I decided to persevere. It wasn't a long day so I could put up with it. But 40C. Quite frankly, F*CK THAT! Let me tell you, the day just kept getting better and better. I try so hard to stay cool and keep out of the sun. A hat, a sun hoodie, drinking plenty of water and enough cheap electrolytes (please send me some LMNT) to turn my pee neon orange (its not a serious health issue, I checked).
Dogs followed me up the roads pestering me for food. The only water source was full of litter. I was desperate to get off the roads and find some decent water. How can I sweat this much with so little fluids inside me. There was enough sweat collecting in my ass to make me think I'd shat myself (hold onto that thought).
There were two towns I would pass through today both with little restaurants inside. The first was shut but there was a place to fill up my water just outside. On the the first day of this trail, most of the people I met were just finishing. But they had all managed to form little trail families on the week or ten day hike. I was hoping for the same. It felt like nobody was out there. Nothing more than one or two passing conversations. Was I the only person starting when I did? I suppose most people tend to stay in guest houses. I do enjoy being alone on these hikes, but I had hoped for a more social trip this time around. No such luck. I think when you go into these things with an idea and a vision of how you want it to pan out, it stings a bit when it doesn't happen.
It was only a short trek, but it would have been nice to connect with other hikers just a little bit more. Maybe its my fault. The smell maybe, or the typical British bluntness. Perhaps I'm not very approachable sometimes. I want to connect with people, but they have to speak to me first... great plan. I have the social skills of a potato, or however that saying goes. Once I'm warmed up, or pissed, its okay but the British, especially the southerners are bought up with a certain amount of standoffishness. Either way I was alone and fed up with the heat and sweat.
The second restaurant I passed was open. That cheered me up. It was half built, or falling down but I was greeted by a very friendly man. He sat me down and talked me through the menu. I thought I'd go all in and try some traditional local food. A board came with breads, cheeses and baked pancakes. Some things I'm still not sure what they were, but always worth a try. I felt so full when I left and all for just a few euros. I only had 5k ish to the top of the mountain, where I had planned to camp that night.
Maybe eating that much before a hard climb wasn't my best idea. I felt so bloated. Half way up was a little hut I was able to fill up water. I had planned to camp next to a spring but judging by how dry it had been, I couldn't be sure it was flowing. The last few miles were steep but stunning. By this time the heat had faded and most of the sweat had subsided.
After finding the spring, eating dinner and setting up my tent, the bloated feeling hadn't subsided and it was soon joined with a sick feeling. Oh dear! I was camped on the summit of the highest point of the Peaks of the Balkans trail by myself. Not sure if that's a good or bad thing when sick on trail. But, hopefully I could sleep it off... This was soon followed by what can only be described as an industrial bout of food poisoning.
After hours of emptying my stomach, I managed to crawl back to my tent and lie inside. A queue of people were stood outside my tent waiting for me to help them. They were all as sick as me. How was I going to help them when I was so unwell myself. Oh. I was hallucinating. I was 'haunted' by shadows outside my tent all night. People queuing up for my help. I just kept telling myself I was alone. I knew I was alone but it looked so real. What the hell had I eaten!
